This method will create a chemical bond, just as if the part was printed on your SLA 3D printer, but is only applicable to small bonding surfaces as the low power light pen cannot penetrate the model deep enough to create a strong bond. To solidify the resin and bond the parts, use a 5mw UV laser light pen (405nm wavelength) and direct it to the bonding area around the parts. Join the parts and wipe off any excess resin that might spill out around the edges. Pour a small amount of resin into a tray from the bottle or cartridge, use a dropper or syringe to pick it up, and place it onto the surface to bond. CA has moderate impact strength, but is not recommended for high-impact applications.įor smaller prints you can also simply use the liquid resin from your SLA 3D printer. Clean the part thoroughly before applying it to the surface, as CA does not bond dirty surfaces well. The next option is cyanoacrylate (CA, or Super Glue), which creates a quick, reasonably strong bond making ideal for small- and medium-sized parts. Read on for a step-by-step walk through the process, from splitting your model to post-processing for a professional finish.
This guide will focus on creating large multi-piece stereolithography (SLA) 3D printed models using chemical fastening.
Mechanical fastening: Add screw thread or pockets to functional engineering parts that require a robust mechanical connection or if you need to repeatedly attach and detach components. When selecting a bonding method, your primary consideration should be the strength of the bonded joints, which is dependent on the ultimate use case of the parts:Ĭhemical fastening: Use a bonding agent for art, scale models, and complex shapes that are not meant for functional use and to sustain impact.
This is the case when multiple or opposing surfaces need to be free of support marks, a design has complex overhangs, or a model contains cavities that would trap the liquid resin inside.ģD printing multiple pieces also opens up new opportunities, such as creating multi-material assemblies or combining rigid and flexible 3D printed parts to simulate overmolding. Splitting a part can also be the best way to get a high-quality result, even if the whole part could fit into a single build. Just as assemblies such as your smartphone or even a road bridge consist of many individual building blocks, splitting a model into smaller parts that can be combined after printing is a great solution for 3D printing large objects that don’t fit on a build platform. Don’t own a large format 3D printer yet? When determining what’s possible with a compact desktop 3D printer, think beyond the build volume.
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